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Gems

Queen of Gems

Nawarat Koe Par or the nine noble Gems


When international gem experts and collectors talk about rubies, the gems of fire and passion, Mogok is invariably the first location to be mentioned. No other country has rubies the size, quality or quantity than those mined in Myanmar. Mogok lies 7,700ft above sea level and the 70 times continue to give up flawless stones of great sizes.

Some historians believe that Mogok mines could have been discovered since the Stone Age.
A 42-carat ruby crystal was found in June of 1919, on the very day that the Versailles Treaty was signed to end the First World War. This ruby was named the Peace Ruby. It was a flawless stone with an excellent color and clarity, marred by only a sma bll hairline fracture. Compare the value with the following data: a flawless pigeon's blood ruby weighing almost 6 carats was sold in 1992 for US$ 120,000 at the National Gems Emporium and in 1995, Sotheby's sold a 27.37 carat Myanmar ruby for US$ 4 million.

Rubies were once so plentiful that a quality Mogok people called "A Hpyone", and thought worthless, lay scattered like pebbles on the streets. Now this quality after being polished is fetching good prices, more so than the semi-precious stones such as spinal, topaz and garnet that come out of Mogok by the bushel.
It is astounding that the Mogok mines continue to give up large stones. Found in 1990, the Nawata ruby is a near-flawless gem of crimson rose color, weighing 496.5 carats after being refined. From the same mine, in the following two years, two other rubies were found, each weighing over 600 carats and 700 carats respectively also of excellent quality. The Nawata Ruby is kept in its crystal state as a National Treasure, and it is nowadays very rare to find a ruby kept uncut, especially when it is of an excellent quality. The Los Angeles Country Museum of Natural History has a fine 196 carat ruby crystal on display.

Myanmar women who could afford to have diamonds dripping around her neck and arms usually prefer to keep her rubies for the most stately occasions, for a flawless diamond is far easier to find than a flawless ruby. The men, too, consider the ruby the most important symbol of their character, for the traditional Nawarat or Nine Gems ring worn by men must always have the ruby, signifying glory, in the centre of the circlet of the other eight precious stones.

Stones such as rubies ofr sapphires, both of the corundum crystal family, are the second hardest gems next to diamonds. They can also look spectacular in cabochon form, especially when radiating lines of moving lustre turns them into 'star' rubies or sapphires.When cut and polished perfectly , Myanmar rubies dazzle the world with their depths of fire, as if the spirit of nature has been caught in their brilliance.
 


A ring found in the excavation of the 16th century ruler King Bayintnaung's palace in the old capital site of Hantahwaddy, now Bago, showed a setting of nine gems in a circular design, unfortunately with the stones lost or stolen. The ring is so huge that only a king would have worn it, and indeed in the days of monarchy only rulers have the right to this piece of jewellery, a symbol of glory and nobility. It could have belonged to King Bayintnaung himself.

This is the ring of the noble nine gems called "Nawarat Koe Par" ring and not usually worn in other setting such as a brooch or pendant, as this is worn exclusive by men.

The nine gems are always set in the same order: the ruby in the middle, the diamond at top centre, then, clockwise, comes the pearl, the coral, the topaz, the sapphire, the moonstone, the zircon, and finally the emerald.

The ruby is for glory; the diamond for dignity; the pearl for grace; the coral for power; the topaz for health; the sapphire for love; the moonstone for prefection; the zircon for strength; and the emerald for peace.

The nine gems must be set at auspicious time and days selected by the astrologer, calculated according to the birth date of the man who is to wear it. The goldsmith must take the five precepts of Buddhism on the day he is to begin work, which means refraining from taking life including those of insects, not stealing, lying, not using intoxicants and to be free of adultery in thought and deed. The work must not be begun afternoon, but only in the mornings, after a prayer at the household shrine and a homage offering presented to good spirits. The wearer may first pray with this ring at his own household shrine before he puts it on his finger.

The men wear this ring on their right hands as this is considered the 'clean' hand and used for eating, etc., a tradition shared by all Asian countries. This "Nawarat Koe Par" ring symbolizes a man's commitment to be pure in heart and thus establish his nobility in the world.

 

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